Food & Wine
What to Eat in Eastern Sicily, Season by Season
Eastern Sicily eats by the calendar: blood oranges and Saint Agatha's sweets in winter, granita for breakfast in summer, pistachios, prickly pears and chestnuts in the fall.

Sicilian food in the east of the island follows the calendar more than the menu. Winter brings blood oranges and the sweets of Saint Agatha's feast in Catania, summer means granita and a warm brioche for breakfast, and the fall brings the pistachio harvest around Bronte in odd-numbered years, prickly pears from the slopes of Etna, and chestnuts. Street food, from arancini to fried pastries, is there all year.
What is typical Sicilian food?
Typical Sicilian food starts from what the island grows and catches: durum wheat for bread and pasta, eggplant, citrus, almonds, sheep's milk ricotta, and fish from the Ionian Sea. Italy's Ministry of Agriculture keeps a national list of traditional food products, and its 2026 edition includes many of the dishes a visitor meets first in the east: arancini di riso, caponata di melanzane, cannolo siciliano, cassata siciliana, scacciata, and three granitas, made with lemon, almond and black mulberry.
Is Sicilian food different from Italian food?
It shares Italy's basics and carries more history on the plate. Arab rule in Sicily ran from the conquest that began in 827 until 1091, and writers on Sicilian food credit that period with rice and with the irrigation that made orange groves possible. The name cassata may come from the Arabic qas'at, a basin, or from the Latin caseum, cheese; Sicily's official tourism site says nobody really knows. In Modica, in the southeast, chocolate is made from bitter cocoa paste and sugar and keeps visible sugar crystals, which make it grainy. In 2018 it became the first chocolate registered as a protected geographical indication (IGP) in the European Union. Our guide to Ortigia, Noto and Modica covers the town itself.
The east has its own accent, too. Even the rice ball changes gender: arancino in Catania, where it is often shaped to a point that may recall Etna, and arancina, round, in Palermo.
Winter: blood oranges, Santa Lucia and Saint Agatha
Blood orange season opens in December. Arancia Rossa di Sicilia, a protected IGP since 1996, grows in 32 municipalities in the provinces of Catania, Siracusa and Enna. Its three varieties have their own seasons: Moro from December to March, Tarocco from December to May, Sanguinello from February to April. The red of the flesh comes from pigments called anthocyanins.
On December 13, Siracusa celebrates its patron, Santa Lucia, and by tradition the city eats no bread or pasta that day. It eats cuccìa instead, boiled wheat, and the favorite version in Siracusa is sweet, with ricotta. The custom recalls a famine that, according to local tradition, ended when ships loaded with grain reached the port.
In Catania, scacciata is the winter pie, baked by the thousands around Christmas Eve: a closed crust filled with broccoli, sheep's cheese, olives, tomato and onion, with many family variations.
From February 3 to 5, Catania celebrates Saint Agatha, its patron saint. Pastry counters fill with minne, small domes of sponge cake and sweetened sheep's ricotta under white icing and a candied cherry, shaped to recall the saint's martyrdom, and with olivette, green almond-paste sweets shaped like olives. The olivette recall a legend in which an olive tree appeared and hid Agatha from the Roman soldiers chasing her.
Spring: rice fritters, cassata and the first anchovies
In Catania, crispelle di riso, sweet rice fritters with orange and honey, belong to Carnival and to March 19, the feast of Saint Joseph, which Italy also keeps as Father's Day. Cassata, ricotta cream and sponge cake inside a border of green almond paste, glazed and topped with candied fruit, began as an Easter sweet made by Sicilian nuns. A Sicilian proverb still pities anyone who goes without cassata on Easter morning.
In April, the fishers of the Gulf of Catania start lowering the tratta, a drift net, at night for anchovies, which the Catanese call masculini. Anchovies caught this way are a Slow Food Presidium. The season runs from April to July; the fish are sold fresh at the Catania fish market and salted for the rest of the year.
Acireale holds the Nivarata, a granita festival named after the nivaroli, the snow gatherers who once stored snow from Etna and the other Sicilian mountains so granita could be made before refrigerators existed. In 2026 it ran from May 22 to 24, in Piazza Duomo and the streets around it.
Summer: granita, cherries and swordfish
Eggplant is in season from June to October, the months for pasta alla Norma, the eggplant pasta of Catania, and for caponata, which is made all over Sicily. On the foothills of Etna, the Ciliegia dell'Etna DOP, a cherry of the Mastrantonio variety, is picked in June and July.
The swordfish season in the Strait of Messina runs from April to September. The traditional feluche, boats with a tall lookout mast and a long walkway at the bow for the harpooner, work the Calabrian side from April to June and the Sicilian shore around Messina in July and August. This way of fishing is a Slow Food Presidium.
Almonds are harvested in July and August around Noto, Avola, Rosolini and Canicattini Bagni, where three old varieties, Romana, Pizzuta d'Avola and Fascionello, are a Slow Food Presidium. Almonds are the base of almond milk, of pasta reale (Sicily's almond paste) and of almond granita. From the middle of August, the first prickly pears of Etna are picked.
What is a typical breakfast in Sicily?
In summer, especially along the coast, the typical Sicilian breakfast is granita with a brioche, a bun of egg-enriched dough with a small ball on top called the tuppo. Granita is water, sugar and fruit juice or another flavoring, worked at low temperature so that no large ice crystals form. Lemon, almond, mulberry, coffee and Bronte pistachio are among the classic flavors, and in Catania it often comes with whipped cream. Bars serve granita all year; the granita breakfast is a hot-weather habit.
Fall: pistachios, prickly pears and chestnuts
Pistacchio Verde di Bronte, a protected DOP since 2010, grows on lava soil between 400 and 900 meters in the towns of Bronte, Adrano and Biancavilla. The trees are harvested every other year, in odd-numbered years, by hand, between late August and early October. In 2026, Bronte's pistachio festival, the Sagra del Pistacchio, takes place over two weekends: September 25 to 27 and October 2 to 4.
The prickly pears of Etna, Ficodindia dell'Etna DOP, come in two waves. The first fruits ripen from mid-August. A second crop, called scozzolati or bastardoni, follows from September to December, after growers remove the first flowers to force a second flowering with larger fruit. The DOP area covers towns on the slopes of Etna such as Bronte, Adrano, Biancavilla and Paternò.
Fall is also harvest time in the vineyards. Nerello Mascalese, the late-ripening red grape of Etna, was once picked in early November and is now usually picked around mid-October; our guide to Etna wine has more on the volcano's wines. On Sundays in October, Zafferana Etnea holds the Ottobrata, a food fair with a theme for each week: in 2026, grapes on October 4, honey on October 11, apples on October 18, and mushrooms and chestnuts on October 25.
November 2 is the Festa dei Morti. Sicilian tradition holds that on the night before, the dead visit their families and leave gifts for the children, among them a pupo di zucchero, a figure made entirely of sugar. The basket of sweets that goes with it holds ossa di morto, biscuits flavored with cloves, and frutta martorana, almond-paste fruit made to look real. On November 11, Saint Martin's day, Catania eats roasted chestnuts with a glass of red wine. Chestnuts are in season in October and November.
What are some typical Sicilian street foods?
Sicilian street food in Catania comes largely from the tavola calda, the bar counters of baked and fried savory pastries. Look for the arancino, a fried rice ball classically filled with ragù; the cipollina, puff pastry filled with onion, tomato, mozzarella and ham; the cartocciata, the same filling folded into a soft, thick dough; and the siciliana, a half-moon of dough filled with tuma or pepato cheese and anchovies, then fried. On Via Plebiscito, grills cook horse meat over coals, a Catania custom called arrusti e mangia, "roast and eat." Our guide to Catania's fish market and street food walks through the city.
For snacks, Sicilians buy calia e simenza, toasted chickpeas and salted pumpkin seeds sold in paper cones at village fairs and patron saint festivals. In Catania, the kiosks pour seltz, limone e sale: soda water, lemon juice and a pinch of salt.
What are the top 10 Sicilian dishes to try?
Ten dishes and Sicilian desserts to look for in the east, and when:
- Arancino, all year.
- Pasta alla Norma, summer: pasta with tomato, fried eggplant, ricotta salata and basil. It is attributed to Catania, and the name is usually read as a nod to Norma, the opera by the Catania-born composer Vincenzo Bellini, though the origin of the name is uncertain.
- Caponata, summer: fried eggplant with celery, onion, olives, capers and tomato, in a sweet and sour dressing.
- Scacciata, winter.
- Cipollina and siciliana, all year.
- Granita with brioche, summer mornings.
- Cannolo, all year: a fried pastry shell filled with sheep's milk ricotta, in Catania often finished with Bronte pistachio.
- Cassata, Easter.
- Minne and olivette, early February in Catania.
- Frutta martorana, around November 2.
Choosing dates for a food trip
Festival dates are set each year, so check them before you book: the dates above are for 2026, and the pistachio harvest only happens in odd-numbered years, which makes 2027 a harvest year. Catania's historic markets are a morning affair: the fish market works Monday to Saturday from about 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. (as of 2026) and closes on Sundays and public holidays.
If you are choosing a month: April still has Tarocco oranges and opens the anchovy season; June brings cherries and the granita breakfast; September and October bring pistachios in harvest years, the second crop of prickly pears and the grape harvest on Etna.
In Amber Sicily, markets and street life come on the last full day, in Catania, at the fish market and over street food. The journey leaves in April and October 2027. Sicily, the Magic of Jasmine has a day in Siracusa and Ortigia, and leaves in June and September 2027.
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